{
    "title": "The lost world of farmhouse brewing ",
    "modified_at": "2026-04-06 23:00:02",
    "published_at": "2026-04-06 23:00:00",
    "url": "https://blog.vib.be/the-lost-world-of-farmhouse-brewing",
    "short_url": "http://prez.ly/9Q8d",
    "culture": "en",
    "language": "EN",
    "subtitle": "And the yeasts that survived it",
    "slug": "the-lost-world-of-farmhouse-brewing",
    "body": "<p><strong>Today, beer brewing is all about precision. Breweries rely on carefully selected yeast strains, tightly controlled fermentation, and standardized processes designed to produce the same result every time. That consistency is one of the great achievements of industrial brewing, but it also came at a cost. Much of the diversity that once characterized beer yeast appears to have been lost along the way.</strong></p><p>For most of brewing history, beer was brewed on farms, in rural households, and in small local communities, using methods shaped by local ingredients, local customs, and local needs. Farmers brewed from their own grain, passed their methods from one generation to the next, and kept their yeast alive from one batch to the next. Over time, that created a rich world of local brewing cultures&hellip; and local yeasts.</p><p>That world was far more varied than the phrase &ldquo;traditional brewing&rdquo; might suggest. In many regions, farmhouse ale was an everyday household drink, brewed whenever the barrel ran low. In others, it was reserved for weddings, Christmas, communal work, or other special occasions, and brewed only a few times each year. Farmers usually worked with the grains they could grow themselves: barley was most common, but rye was common further east, oats in coastal climates, and wheat more rarely in southern areas. Most malted their own grain, too.</p><p>The brewing methods were just as diverse. Hops were common, but in many places brewers also used juniper branches, either to filter the wort or to make a juniper infusion for brewing liquor. Elsewhere, they used alder branches or herbs. Mashing methods varied widely: direct heating in the kettle, infusion mashing, decoction, heating with hot stones, or even baking the mash in an oven. In large parts of Europe, brewers did not boil the wort after mashing at all, relying instead on the heat of the mash to pasteurize it.</p><p>A common feature of farmhouse brewing across Europe was adding yeast at very high temperatures, often around body temperature. Fermentations were also surprisingly fast, with beer often transferred after only one or two days. In Norway, at least, brewers often insulated the fermentor or kept it in a warm place, and estimates suggest actual fermentation temperatures reached 25 to 42&deg;C, often above 35&deg;C. Compared with the carefully managed temperature profiles of modern industrial brewing, this was a very different yeast environment.</p><p>All of this matters because yeast does not exist apart from brewing practice. The way brewers mashed, filtered, fermented, stored, and reused yeast shaped the microbial cultures living in those breweries. Over time, those cultures did not remain static: they adapted, diversified, and sometimes exchanged genes and strains, creating local yeast populations shaped as much by human tradition as by biology.</p><p>This is the backdrop to a recent study by the <strong>Verstrepen</strong> lab at the <strong>VIB-KU Leuven Center for Microbiology</strong>, which examines the genetics and biology of surviving farmhouse yeast cultures from Scandinavia and the Baltics.</p><h4 id=\"keeping-your-own-yeast-alive\" >Keeping your own yeast alive</h4><p>Today, brewers can order specific yeast strains from suppliers and propagate and store them under controlled conditions. In farmhouse brewing, yeast was preserved in practical, highly local ways. Some brewers stored it wet in jars. Others dried it on cloth, on rings made from straw or juniper branches, or on specially made wooden tools such as yeast rings and yeast logs. In Sweden, brewers often harvested yeast from the bottom of the beer barrel just before starting a new brew, rather than directly from the fermentor. These methods may sound improvised by modern standards, but they were part of a long and highly skilled tradition of keeping fermentation cultures alive between brewing sessions.</p><p>These practices were not without risk. Yeast could die, weaken, or become contaminated. But since everyone was brewing, there was usually a neigbour to help out with new yeast if yours went bad. As long as brewers succeeded in passing it on, batch after batch and year after year, their cultures remained embedded in a particular brewing tradition. That continuity is one reason farmhouse yeast is so interesting today: it survived as part of a living practice.</p>\n    <figure\n        class=\"release-content-image release-content-image--contained release-content-image--align-center\"\n        data-component=\"image-zoom-popup\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-selector=\".release-content-image__image\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-i18n=\"data:application/json;base64,eyJEb3dubG9hZCI6IkRvd25sb2FkIn0=\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-views-event=\"Story Image View\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-download-event=\"Story Image Download\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-placement=\"content\"\n    >\n        <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover\" style=\"width: 100%\">\n            <img\n                src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/6f48d419-79d3-4920-859e-d84442752ff9/-/format/auto/\"\n                                class=\"release-content-image__image image-thumbnail-rollover__image\"\n                data-description=\"Farmhouse yeast in Voss, Norway &amp;copy;Lars Marius Garshol\"\n                id=\"image-6f48d419-79d3-4920-859e-d84442752ff9\"\n                data-id=\"6f48d419-79d3-4920-859e-d84442752ff9\"\n                data-original=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/6f48d419-79d3-4920-859e-d84442752ff9/-/inline/no/Picture2+copy.jpeg\"\n                data-mfp-src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/6f48d419-79d3-4920-859e-d84442752ff9/-/format/auto/\"\n                alt=\"Farmhouse yeast in Voss, Norway \u00a9Lars Marius Garshol\"\n            />\n            <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover__caption\">\n                <svg class=\"icon icon-expand image-thumbnail-rollover__caption-icon\">\n                <use xlink:href=\"#icon-expand\"></use>\n            </svg>            </div>\n        </div>\n\n        <figcaption class=\"release-content-image__caption\">Farmhouse yeast in Voss, Norway &copy;Lars Marius Garshol</figcaption>\n    </figure>\n<h4 id=\"emil-christian-hansen\" >Emil Christian Hansen</h4><p>The great break came in the late nineteenth century. In 1883, Emil Christian Hansen at the Carlsberg brewery laid the foundations for modern yeast handling by isolating single-strain pure cultures for brewing. Hansen&rsquo;s method made fermentation much more reproducible and helped create the consistent brewing systems we now take for granted. </p><p>Brewers began sharing those successful strains, especially fast-fermenting ones, across wider and wider areas. The result was a massive narrowing of beer yeast diversity. Locally distinctive yeast populations that had evolved over long periods were replaced by a smaller set of standardized brewing strains.</p><p>Industrialization changed more than yeast handling. Rural populations declined. Farmers shifted away from subsistence agriculture and better transport made bought beer easier to access. In many regions, farmhouse ale lost its central place in daily life and social custom. In most places, traditional brewing disappeared entirely.</p><h4 id=\"kveik-gong-kaimiskas-and-keptinis\" >Kveik, gong, <em>kaimi&scaron;kas</em> and <em>keptinis</em></h4><p>Yet, in some remote regions, the old ways endured. In some remote parts of Northern and Eastern Europe, brewers continued to maintain their own cultures and brew in traditional ways well into the modern era. So far, around 70 surviving farmhouse yeast cultures have been identified in Europe, and more may yet be found.</p><p>The regions covered in the study by the Verstrepen lab offer a glimpse of that surviving world. In north-west Norway, brewers are known for a farmhouse ale called <em>korn&oslash;l</em>, associated with juniper branches, unboiled wort, and the family of farmhouse yeast now widely known as kveik. In south-west Norway, the beer is called <em>heimabrygg</em> and differs mainly in being boiled. In Hallingdal, in central-eastern Norway, brewers use juniper branches and boiled wort but a different yeast family, tentatively called &ldquo;gong.&rdquo; In upper Telemark, brewers who still keep their own yeast now often use malt extract.</p>\n    <figure\n        class=\"release-content-image release-content-image--contained release-content-image--align-center\"\n        data-component=\"image-zoom-popup\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-selector=\".release-content-image__image\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-i18n=\"data:application/json;base64,eyJEb3dubG9hZCI6IkRvd25sb2FkIn0=\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-views-event=\"Story Image View\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-download-event=\"Story Image Download\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-placement=\"content\"\n    >\n        <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover\" style=\"width: 100%\">\n            <img\n                src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/\"\n                                    srcset=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/ 1x, https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317/-/resize/2400x/-/format/auto/ 2x\"\n                                class=\"release-content-image__image image-thumbnail-rollover__image\"\n                data-description=\"A Norwegian yeast ring (&lt;em&gt;gj&amp;aelig;rkrans&lt;/em&gt;) used to harvest and preserve kveik &amp;copy;Lars Marius Garshol\"\n                id=\"image-a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317\"\n                data-id=\"a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317\"\n                data-original=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317/-/inline/no/Picture7.jpeg\"\n                data-mfp-src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/a6cca09a-840e-4f56-9e08-f32304e50317/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/\"\n                alt=\"A Norwegian yeast ring ( gj\u00e6rkrans ) used to harvest and preserve kveik \u00a9Lars Marius Garshol\"\n            />\n            <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover__caption\">\n                <svg class=\"icon icon-expand image-thumbnail-rollover__caption-icon\">\n                <use xlink:href=\"#icon-expand\"></use>\n            </svg>            </div>\n        </div>\n\n        <figcaption class=\"release-content-image__caption\">A Norwegian yeast ring (<em>gj&aelig;rkrans</em>) used to harvest and preserve kveik &copy;Lars Marius Garshol</figcaption>\n    </figure>\n<p>Further east, eastern Latvia preserves traditions involving farmhouse yeast, home-made smoked malt, and unboiled wort. In northern Lithuania, some brewers make <em>kaimi&scaron;kas</em>, while others brew <em>keptinis</em>, a traditional beer in which the mash is baked in an oven. In Chuvashia, in Russia, farmhouse ale survives in a range of forms, with some brewers using oven-based methods and others not.</p><p>These different regions represent distinct brewing traditions, shaped by different ingredients, different methods, and different local histories. That is exactly why their yeast cultures are so valuable to historians, brewers, and scientists alike.</p>\n    <figure\n        class=\"release-content-image release-content-image--contained release-content-image--align-center\"\n        data-component=\"image-zoom-popup\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-selector=\".release-content-image__image\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-i18n=\"data:application/json;base64,eyJEb3dubG9hZCI6IkRvd25sb2FkIn0=\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-views-event=\"Story Image View\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-download-event=\"Story Image Download\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-placement=\"content\"\n    >\n        <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover\" style=\"width: 100%\">\n            <img\n                src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/63fe13c1-2734-4c41-8c2d-763dc7a42357/-/format/auto/\"\n                                class=\"release-content-image__image image-thumbnail-rollover__image\"\n                data-description=\"Origin locations of the cultures investigated in Bircham, &lt;em&gt;et al.&lt;/em&gt; Current Biology, 2026\"\n                id=\"image-63fe13c1-2734-4c41-8c2d-763dc7a42357\"\n                data-id=\"63fe13c1-2734-4c41-8c2d-763dc7a42357\"\n                data-original=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/63fe13c1-2734-4c41-8c2d-763dc7a42357/-/inline/no/image.png\"\n                data-mfp-src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/63fe13c1-2734-4c41-8c2d-763dc7a42357/-/format/auto/\"\n                alt=\"Origin locations of the cultures investigated in Bircham,  et al.  Current Biology, 2026\"\n            />\n            <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover__caption\">\n                <svg class=\"icon icon-expand image-thumbnail-rollover__caption-icon\">\n                <use xlink:href=\"#icon-expand\"></use>\n            </svg>            </div>\n        </div>\n\n        <figcaption class=\"release-content-image__caption\">Origin locations of the cultures investigated in Bircham, <em>et al.</em> Current Biology, 2026</figcaption>\n    </figure>\n<h4 id=\"yeast-cultures-as-social-cultures\" >Yeast cultures as social cultures</h4><p>Another important part of the story is that farmhouse yeast was not always isolated within a single household. Brewers often exchanged yeast with neighbors, and in some cases mixed cultures deliberately. In an accompanying note to the paper, <a href=\"https://www.garshol.priv.no/pages/me.html\"><u>Norwegian farmhouse brewing expert Lars Marius Garshol</u></a> and co-authors from the Verstrepen lab explore these overlaps and how they may help explain some of the genetic patterns identified in the new analysis.</p><p>Some cultures appear to have remained relatively stable over long periods, while others likely changed through a combination of mutation, selection, and occasional sexual reproduction. Farmhouse brewers in Norway, Latvia, Lithuania, and Russia are still using these cultures today, which gives researchers a rare opportunity to study yeast diversity as it continues to evolve in its natural brewing habitat, as living, changing populations maintained in practice, in real brewing environments, by real brewers.</p><div\n    id='gallery-a7a9718f-7cab-4535-bed0-f4c200d9073a'\n    class='release-content-gallery release-content-gallery--layout-full-width'\n    data-component='chromatic-gallery,image-zoom-popup'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-padding='S'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-thumbnail-size='M'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-captions='data:application/json,true'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-photos='data:application/json;base64,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'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-force-full-width='data:application/json,true'\n    data-chromatic-gallery-expand-icon='data:text/plain;base64,PHN2ZyBjbGFzcz0iaWNvbiBpY29uLWV4cGFuZCI+CiAgICAgICAgICAgICAgICA8dXNlIHhsaW5rOmhyZWY9IiNpY29uLWV4cGFuZCI+PC91c2U+CiAgICAgICAgICAgIDwvc3ZnPg=='\n    data-image-zoom-popup-selector='.chromatic-gallery__photo'\n    data-image-zoom-popup-i18n='data:application/json;base64,eyJEb3dubG9hZCI6IkRvd25sb2FkIn0='\n    data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-view-event='Story Image View'\n    data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-download-event='Story Image Download'\n    data-image-zoom-popup-placement='content'\n></div><h4 id=\"history-meets-science\" >History meets science</h4><p>In their paper, the Verstrepen lab and Garshol collaborate to examine these farmhouse cultures genetically and phenotypically, asking what survived in them and how they differ from industrial brewing yeasts. The cultures preserve extraordinary diversity, both within and between brewing traditions. In fact, even within one individual sub-family, there was often more genetic diversity than in the entire yeast family termed &ldquo;Beer 1&rdquo;, which contains most commercial beer yeast.</p><p>Some yeast groups show strong geographic structure, suggesting that local brewing traditions helped shape distinct regional lineages. The mountains dividing Western from Eastern Norway, for example, also delineate different brewing <em>and</em> yeast cultures. Other groups show overlap and admixture, consistent with the historical exchange of yeast between nearby brewers. In Baltic strains, the researchers even identified a gene cluster that appears to have been acquired from another yeast lineage.</p><p>But the bigger picture only becomes fully visible when you place those findings against their historical background. These yeasts were shaped by warm, fast fermentations, by storage in jars or on wood and cloth, by irregular brewing schedules, and by highly local brewing practices rather than industrial standardization. That helps explain why they may preserve traits and diversity that are rare in modern commercial brewing.</p><p>For brewers, that opens up exciting possibilities. The search for new flavors, distinctive fermentation performance, and more resilient brewing cultures is constant. Farmhouse yeast may prove to be a rich source of ideas and strains for that future. </p><p>&nbsp;</p>\n    <figure\n        class=\"release-content-image release-content-image--contained release-content-image--align-center\"\n        data-component=\"image-zoom-popup\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-selector=\".release-content-image__image\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-i18n=\"data:application/json;base64,eyJEb3dubG9hZCI6IkRvd25sb2FkIn0=\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-views-event=\"Story Image View\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-tracking-download-event=\"Story Image Download\"\n        data-image-zoom-popup-placement=\"content\"\n    >\n        <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover\" style=\"width: 100%\">\n            <img\n                src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/\"\n                                    srcset=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/ 1x, https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5/-/resize/2400x/-/format/auto/ 2x\"\n                                class=\"release-content-image__image image-thumbnail-rollover__image\"\n                data-description=\"&amp;copy;Lars Marius Garshol\"\n                id=\"image-ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5\"\n                data-id=\"ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5\"\n                data-original=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5/-/inline/no/Picture4.jpeg\"\n                data-mfp-src=\"https://cdn.uc.assets.prezly.com/ac48e743-09f4-4b3f-9f24-760a032fe8b5/-/resize/1200x/-/format/auto/\"\n                alt=\"\u00a9Lars Marius Garshol\"\n            />\n            <div class=\"image-thumbnail-rollover__caption\">\n                <svg class=\"icon icon-expand image-thumbnail-rollover__caption-icon\">\n                <use xlink:href=\"#icon-expand\"></use>\n            </svg>            </div>\n        </div>\n\n        <figcaption class=\"release-content-image__caption\">&copy;Lars Marius Garshol</figcaption>\n    </figure>\n<p>&nbsp;</p>",
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        {
            "caption": "Terje Raftevold harvesting culture #5 from the fermenting beer, Innvik, Norway \u00a9Lars Marius Garshol",
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        {
            "caption": "Marina Fyodorovna making a yeast starter with culture #39, Kshaushi, Chuvash Autonomous Republic, Russia \u00a9Lars Marius Garshol",
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